You know when you have big gaps in fences, intended for people to go through? Traditionally those are filled with gates. Call me crazy, but that seems a useful idea.
So, over the last couple of days I built gates for the chicken run; a small one for people to go through, and a big double gate for vehicle access.
Here’s the small gate, after being built:
Wondering about the bit at the bottom? Here’s the gate installed, so you can see why; it’s to allow for the bottom board of the fence when mounting the hinges:
The view from inside the run:
Next up, the big gate. Here’s one side assembled, but not yet mounted:
And both sides installed:
From another angle:
And from inside:
Next up: installing the fencing wire!
Back to work on the chicken run, after the festivities of the weekend (and thanks for all the kind words about the coop).
Yesterday I installed one of the posts and horizontal beams for the small gate west of the coop:
Then today I did the couple of posts and beams on the other side of the gate:
And added a sill below both gate openings; the small gate as above, and the big gate:
We’re having record heat this week, with highs over 100°F (38°C)… what better time to work outside on the new chicken run?!
My latest toy is very useful to dig the 2′ deep fence post holes — an earth auger:
Digging the holes:
Posts temporarily placed in the holes:
Starting to install them properly:
The east fence frame, with space for a large double gate on the left, big enough to drive through:
The north fence frame:
Reverse angle; the poles leaning inside the run will go into holes in the center, supporting beams and a bird netting cover:
To be continued….
I just got back from another trip to Home Depot (the 7th for this project), to get some more supplies for the new chicken run. Wire fencing, posts, nails, gate hardware, etc.
My first attempt at a custom chicken feeder didn’t work so well — the feed tended to not make it far enough past the 90° elbow to reach the holes where the chicks eat.
So I modified it to use a 45° connector instead (which Jenn kindly picked up on the way home from work). I didn’t want it quite that steep, so I joined the parts with some duct tape:
The new angle works much better; the food freely flows down to fill the tube, but doesn’t overflow:
Having four hole heights means chickens of all sizes can reach the food without a platform, too.
Hopefully this will work reliably; time will tell.
Yesterday Jenn planted the chicken coop’s window boxes, with oregano, catnip, and spearmint — plants that help to deter pests from the coop:
Meanwhile I added second pulleys and ropes to the windows, to hold them open more securely, and replaced hook-and-eye latches with slide bolts:
I also added bolts on the vent doors, and added weather stripping:
Oh, and I recently replaced the temporary latch on the center door with a proper latch, and a bolt to join the two parts of the door. A cord goes through a hole in the frame so the latch can be opened from inside the coop:
One project for the chicken coop that I deferred until after they had moved in was a custom feeder and waterer for them.
I made them out of 2″ PVC piping, and other bits. Firstly I drilled and filed holes in one piece of pipe, for the feeder:
I then assembled other pipe bits for both:
Here’s the waterer, in two pieces (so it could be inserted through the center wall hardware cloth). It uses drinker cups that dispense water when the chickens nudge the yellow tab:
Building a stand for both dispeners:
Both installed. The height is set for adult chickens, so I added a temporary platform so the chicks would be able to reach them:
Closeup of the feeder; I hope it works properly — I have a concern that the feed might not make it down the tube all that well, but we’ll see:
The waterer cups:
The feed and water bottles (only partially filled for now, just in case):